And then there was Wren: Version 2

Following on from that hideous version of wren I blogged about a couple of weeks ago I'm very happy to show of my second version of Wren which is a much much better fit. You may not have seen the other post as I purposefully made no reference to it on social media I think it was that bad!

Anyway, I had always planned on making two versions of this dress, when I was looking for the fabric for it I spied this lovely jersey here on Croft Mills website and it was a great fit for the pattern. I wanted something with a pattern but it needed to be something without a directional print as I'm not sure how that would transfer to the neck crossover sections. This ticks all those boxes and because I knew I would want to get some wear out of this one I thought it best to make a tester first.

 

I made a number of adjustments on this version. Not just in the sizing but also a couple on the pattern itself. I did a small back adjustment, a full bust adjustment (using the Myrtle sew along, thank you to the lovely ladies at Colette for getting back to me with this suggestion) and shortened the skirt. This one fits soooo much better now I'm really pleased I did them. How frustrating is it though that I can't even get away with sewing straight from the pattern even in the stretchiest of fabrics!!

So I also made a couple of adjustments to the pattern. The first was to cut the front wrap pieces on the fold so that they are actually doubled over. This meant that rather than having to sew a hem on the front neckline you have a nice smooth line, you just have to sew the two raw edges to the bodice piece and thats it. I also decided to add cuff bands instead of sewing a hem on the cuffs. I used the 3/4 sleeve which is in the additional sleeves download, but they are just a bit short, and I like something that clings to my arm a bit better. I nicked the cuff bands from the lady skater dress pattern but it would be really easy to draft your own just by measuring the width of your arm and adding a seam allowance. I'm really pleased with these two adjustments, I hated the twin needle sewing on my last version so it was nice to get rid of as much of that as possible. I don't think the neck alteration would work on the thicker ponte roma/interlock knit version as it might be too thick but it works well if using regular jersey. The only adjustment I would consider down the line would be to make the back neck a bit higher, it feels a little drafty for me but not too much to worry about.

 

I'm really chuffed with this version. The fit is brilliant, its really flattering, the fabric works really well and is comfortable to wear, it goes with all sorts and I can dress it up or down to suit the occasion. I am still having some slight issues with flashing depending on my undergarments but it is no where near as bad as the previous version. I have discovered that I can wear a vest top underneath if I am really worried and it doesn't look awkward at all. However, if anyone has any tips on how to prevent this happening tell me, tell me now!

I hope you like it. I really recommend this pattern, its it a breeze to sew once you have your twin needle sussed.

x

A well adjusted Megan dress

As I write this I'm actually sitting in our kitchen at work wearing my Megan dress and proudly saying 'thank you, I made it'. Don't you just love that feeling! 

Making Megan has been a little bit of a fitting journey for me, with two toiles, so she has taken a little longer than the other projects. Seeing the fit at the end totally makes it worth it though, no more ill fitting store bought dresses. She is made from some cotton sateen that I have had in my stash for a little while. I really like sateen, it's a bit heavier than some other cottons but has a nice little bit of stretch in which makes fitting a little more forgiving, I wasn't really too sure if I was going to like either the fabric or the style of dress when making this, but do you know what it's not all that bad. It's definitely wearable, and whilst I don't love it in a way that makes me want to wear it every day I certainly don't hate it. I think the only thing for me is that the neck is too high for my body type, and a bit formal looking for my style ,but it's definitely fine for the office. 

In terms of fitting I made made the following alterations. I did a full bust adjustment, adding about 3inch in total and elongated the front and back bodice by 2 inches. My main reason for this is when you have a slightly larger bust you don't really want a dart tuck just under your bust area. I find it can make it look a bit like your boobs are hanging low which is definitely not a good look! I think I did a pretty good job of making the dress flatter that area in the end. I also moved the bust darts, though looking at them they still look like they could do with some adjusting. The final alteration was to take 2 inch off the skirt to accommodate the fact I made the bodice longer. I normally do this at the end before sewing the hem and think I will in future as I only just got away with it being decent!! The only thing I would try and do better would be the neckline. It doesn't sit quiet flat, I think I should probably pay more attention to the shoulders next time. 

This section had us putting in a neck facing and fitting a sleeve. I am very proud to say that this was my first attempt at fitting a sleeve and I'm really pleased with them. There is  some puckering showing but given that you are asked to gather the sleeve I think this is how they are supposed to be. I've had a look at other versions of the dress and they look to have some gather in too. Yay! Go me. It wasn't anywhere near as frightening as I thought! 

So all in all that went pretty well :) a nice introduction back into full dressmaking and pattern adjustments. Now just to work on improving my skills and trying to get them perfected. It would be nice to learn the types of adjustments needed to standard patterns for my body shape but that will come in time. My sister has very kindly offered to help me draft up a body block at some point so I can start making patterns from it. So that will be a fun new skill to try and learn.

Next up Clemence which is a gathered skirt and I think (hope) this is going to be something I can make that feels a bit more like my personal style. Lets see how we get on.